Woven fabric cutting process

Before cutting, we must first draw a discharge map according to the sample. “Complete, reasonable and economical” is the basic principle of discharge. The main process requirements in the cutting process are as follows:

(1) When you are dragging, clear the quantity and pay attention to avoiding the defects.

(2) For different batches of dyed or sand washed fabrics, it should be cut in batches to prevent color difference on the same garments. For the color difference phenomenon in a fabric, color difference discharge is required.

(3) Pay attention to the silk thread of the fabric and the direction of the silk thread of the garment to meet the technical requirements. For the pile fabric (such as velvet, velvet, corduroy, etc.), the discharge should not be reversed, otherwise it will affect the color of the garment. The depth of the light.

(4) For the plaid fabric, pay attention to the alignment and positioning of the strips in each layer to ensure the consistency and symmetry of the strips on the garment.

(5) The cutting requirements are accurate and the lines are smooth and smooth. The paving type must not be too thick, and the upper and lower layers of the fabric are not knives.

(6) Cut the knife edge according to the pattern alignment mark.

(7) When using the tapered hole mark, care should be taken not to affect the appearance of the garment. After cutting, the number of inventories and the work of inspection should be carried out, and the bundles should be bundled according to the specifications of the garments, and the ticket number, location and specifications should be attached.

Sewing sewing

Sewing sewing is the central process of garment processing. Sewing of garments can be divided into machine sewing and hand sewing according to style and craft style. Flowing in the sewing process.

The application of the adhesive lining in the processing of garments is relatively common, and its function is to simplify the sewing process, to make the quality of the garment uniform, to prevent deformation and wrinkles, and to play a certain role in the garment styling. The types of non-woven fabrics, woven fabrics and knitwear are mostly used as the base fabric. The use of the adhesive lining should be selected according to the fabric and the parts, and the time, temperature and pressure of the bonding should be accurately grasped, so as to achieve better results. .

In the processing of woven garments, the stitches are arranged in series on the clothes piece according to a certain rule to form a firm and beautiful stitch. The stitches can be roughly summarized into the following four types:

Chain stitch

Chain stitches are made up of one or two stitches. A single thread is called a single thread chain seam. The advantage is that the amount of wire used per unit length is small, and the disadvantage is that edge interlocking occurs when the chain wire breaks. The stitch of the double stitch is called a double-line chain stitch. It is made up of a needle thread and a hook thread. The elasticity and strength are better than the lock stitch, and it is not easy to disperse. Single-line chain stitches are often used for top hem, quilted hem, and tie tops for suit jackets. Double-line chain stitches are often used for seaming, stitching, seams, back seams and side seams, elastic belts, etc., which are stretched more and are more stressed.

Lock stitch

Also known as the shuttle stitching line, the two stitches are cross-joined in the sewing material. Both ends of the sewing material have the same shape, and the stretchability and elasticity are poor, but the upper and lower stitching are tight. Linear lock stitches are the most common stitches for stitching. They are often used for stitching two pieces of stitching because of the small amount of thread and poor stretchability. Such as seaming, sewing, bagging, etc.

Overlock stitch

It is a stitch that is looped over the edges of the seam by a number of stitches. The name is called according to the number of stitches that make up the stitch (single-line overlock, double-strand overlock... six-slit overlock). It is characterized in that the edge of the sewing material is wrapped to prevent the edge of the fabric from being dissipated. When the seam is stretched, the upper thread and the lower thread can be transferred to each other to a certain extent, and thus the seam has good elasticity, so it is widely used for the edging of the woven fabric. Three-line overlock and four-line overlock are the edging of the most commonly used woven garments. The five-line overlock and the six-thread overlock are also called “composite stitches”, which are composed of a double-line overlock and a three-line overlock or four-line overlock stitch. Its biggest feature is its strong strength, which can be combined with seams at the same time, thus increasing the density of the seams and the production efficiency of the sewing.

Stretch stitch

It is made up of two or more needle threads and one hook line, and sometimes one or two decorative lines are added to the front side. Stretch stitches are characterized by strong strength, good stretchability, and smooth stitching. In some cases (such as stitching seams), they also prevent the edges of the fabric from dissipating.

In addition to the basic sewing, the basic stitching method has processing methods such as shirring and appliqué according to the style and process requirements. The choice of needle, thread and stitch density in the sewing of woven garments should take into account the texture and craftsmanship requirements of the fabric.

The needles can be classified by "type and number". According to the shape, the needles can be divided into S, J, B, U, and Y types, corresponding to different fabrics, and suitable needles are respectively used.

The thickness of the needles used in China is distinguished by the number, and the thickness is thicker and thicker with the increase of the number. The number of needles used in garment processing is generally from No. 5 to No. 16, and different garment fabrics are different. Thick and thin needle

The selection of sutures should in principle be of the same quality and color as the fabrics (except for decorative designs). The suture generally includes a thread, a cotton thread, a cotton/polyester thread, a polyester thread, and the like. Pay attention to the quality of the suture when selecting sutures, such as color fastness, shrinkage, fastness, and so on.

The stitch density is the degree of density of the pointer foot, which is judged by the number of stitches exposed within 3 cm of the surface of the cloth, and can also be expressed by the number of pinholes in the 3 cm cloth.

The sewing of the garment as a whole requires regularity and beauty, and there should be no asymmetry, twisting, snagging, and staggering. In the sewing fabric, pay attention to the splicing of the stitching pattern, and the strips are symmetrical. See Table 1-5 and Figure 1-14. The stitching requirements are uniform and straight, the arc is round and smooth; the tangential line of the garment is flat and wrinkle-free, small fold; the stitching is in good condition, no broken line, floating line, drawing line, etc.; important parts such as the collar should not be wired. .

Keyhole button

The keyholes and studs in the garment are usually machined, and the grommets are divided into flat and eye-shaped holes according to their shapes, commonly known as sleeping holes and pigeon eyelets.

Sleeping holes (see Figure 1-15) are commonly used in products such as shirts, skirts, and pants. The eyelet of the pigeon (see Figure 1-16 and Figure 1-17) is used for outerwear such as blouses and suits. The keyholes should pay attention to the following points: (1) Whether the buttonhole position is correct. (2) Whether the size of the buttonhole and the size and thickness of the button are matched. (3) Whether the buttonhole opening is cut. (4) If there is stretch (elasticity) or very thin clothing, consider using a keyhole to reinforce the inner layer. The sewing of the button should correspond to the position of the buttonhole, otherwise the garment will be distorted and skewed due to the inaccurate buckle. At the time of the buckle, it should also be noted whether the amount and strength of the fastening thread are sufficient to prevent the button from falling off, and whether the number of windings on the thick fabric garment is sufficient.

Ironing

People often use "three-point sewing and seven-point ironing" to strengthen the ironing is an important process in garment processing.

The main role of ironing is threefold:

(1) Remove wrinkles from clothing by spraying and ironing, and flatten the crease.

(2) After heat setting treatment, the appearance of the garment is flat, and the pleats and lines are straight.

(3) Using the "return" and "pull" ironing techniques to appropriately change the shrinkage of the fiber and the density and direction of the warp and weft of the fabric, and shape the three-dimensional shape of the garment to meet the requirements of the human body and the active state, so that the garment reaches the shape. Beautiful and comfortable to wear.

The four basic elements that affect fabric ironing are temperature, humidity, pressure and time. The ironing temperature is the main factor affecting the ironing effect. Mastering the ironing temperature of various fabrics is a key issue in finishing garments. If the ironing temperature is too low, the ironing effect will not be achieved; if the ironing temperature is too high, the clothes will be ironed and damaged.

The ironing temperature of various fibers is also affected by various factors such as contact time, moving speed, ironing pressure, presence or absence of cloth, thickness of the cloth, and moisture.

The following phenomena should be avoided during ironing:

(1) Aurora and scorching on the surface of the garment due to excessively high ironing temperature.

(2) The surface of the garment is left with fine ripples and wrinkles.

(3) There is a leaking part.

Garment inspection

The inspection of the garment should be carried out throughout the entire processing process such as cutting, sewing, keyhole fastening, and ironing. The finished product should be thoroughly inspected before packaging and storage to ensure the quality of the product.

The main contents of the finished product inspection are:

(1) Whether the style is the same as the confirmation.

(2) Whether the size specifications meet the requirements of the process sheet and sample.

(3) Whether the stitching is correct, whether the sewing is regular or flat.

(4) Check whether the clothing of the strip fabric is correct.

(5) Whether the silk thread of the fabric is correct, whether there is any flaw on the fabric, and oil is present.

(6) Is there a problem of chromatic aberration in the same piece of clothing?

(7) Whether the ironing is good.

(8) Whether the adhesive lining is firm and whether there is any bleed.

(9) Has the thread head been repaired?

(10) Whether the clothing accessories are complete.

(11) Whether the size of the garment, the washing water, the trademark, etc. are consistent with the actual cargo content, and the position is correct.

(12) Is the overall shape of the garment good?

(13) Whether the packaging meets the requirements.

Packaging and storage

The packaging of the garment can be divided into two types: the hanging and the boxing. The boxing generally has the inner and outer packaging.

The inner packaging refers to one or several pieces of clothing into a plastic bag. The item number and size of the clothing should be consistent with those marked on the plastic bag, and the packaging requirements are flat and beautiful. Some special styles of clothing must be specially treated during packaging. For example, wrinkle-like garments should be wrapped in a twisted form to maintain their style.

The outer packaging is generally packed in cartons, and the size and color are matched according to customer requirements or craft order instructions. The packaging form generally has mixed color mixing code, single color unique code, single color mixed code, mixed color unique code four. When packing, pay attention to the complete quantity and accurate color and color matching. The box is marked on the outer box, indicating the customer, the port of shipment, the box number, the quantity, the country of origin, etc. The content is consistent with the actual goods.

Fabric inspection

The quality of good fabrics is an important part of controlling the quality of finished products. Through the inspection and measurement of the incoming fabric, the authenticity rate of the garment can be effectively improved.

Fabric inspection includes both appearance quality and intrinsic quality. Appearance mainly tests whether the fabric is damaged, smudged, weaving defects, color difference and so on. Sand-washed fabrics should also pay attention to the existence of sand washing, dead pleats, cracks and other sand washing points. Defects that affect the appearance are marked with a mark during inspection and are avoided during trimming.

The intrinsic quality of fabrics mainly includes shrinkage, color fastness and gram weight (mmi, ounce). When conducting inspection sampling, samples with different varieties and different colors produced by different manufacturers should be cut for testing to ensure the accuracy of the data.

At the same time, the auxiliary materials entering the factory should also be inspected, such as the shrinkage rate of the elastic band, the adhesion fastness of the adhesive lining, the smoothness of the zipper, etc., and the auxiliary materials that cannot meet the requirements are not put into use.